Chapter VI

FORT VICTORIA: A STRUCTURAL HISTORY

It is clear that when Fort Victoria was first opened in the fall of 1864, there were no permanent buildings on the site. In a letter dated October 23, 1864, Chief Factor William J. Christie informed the Clerk in charge of the outpost, George Flett, that manpower was sorely lacking and that only during the winter months could he hope to pick up men to square wood, etc., for a House and Store."190 Presumably, Flett operated under tent and canvas until the necessary men were found. But found they were, and by October 1865, it appears certain that the house or Clerk's quarters was near completion. 191

Fortunately, the first building constructed at Fort Victoria is still standing. Its outward appearance has been altered over the years, but it remains an excellent example of the "post on sill" method of wood construction. Since the Hudson's Bay Company patterned most of their 19th century dwellings on this model, it is perhaps appropriate that we mention briefly its essential characteristics before proceeding with a more detailed analysis of the post buildings themselves.

What is basic to all forms, of horizontal even tier construction, including post on sill, is the use of vertical corner posts. Fred Kniffen and Henry Glassie have identified four methods of providing corner support. 192 The first consists of vertical posts with continuous grooves into which the tapered ends of the horizontal logs are placed. In the second, the vertical post is mortised into a sill and the tapered ends of the horizontal logs are slid into place between the grooved uprights--typical of most H.B.C. buildings (see Figure 3). A third utilizes four posts which are driven into the ground in such a manner that the horizontal logs are held firmly in place (see Figure 4). The fourth and final method consists of a "hog and trough" of planks, the apex set into the corner with wings abutting the ends of the horizontal logs, to which they are either spiked or pegged (see Figure 5). Yet another identifiable characteristic of this mode of construction is the use of sever- al minor vertical uprights. It was not uncommon for a building to have (start of page 83) anywhere from five to ten uprights on one facing. This not only added to the strength of the building, but also permitted the use of shorter logs and at the same time put no restriction on the size of the structure. 193 When doors, and if necessary windows, were added to the structure, they were usually set between the minor uprights or beside one of the major uprights. Although roofing varied with the locale, the original post on sill building was given a thatched roof. 194

While the term "post on sill" has been generally applied to the French-Canadian way of building wooden houses and dependencies, 195 its adoption by the Hudson's Bay Company resulted in several variations. Adaptation to local geography can account for some of the changes (e.g., in areas of heavy rainfall a deep eaved roof was preferred), but of more significance were the changes due to culture. Jill Wade has pointed out that the H.B.C. Scottish factors were influenced by the laird's house of 18th century Scotland (see Figures 6 and 7). Since the interior plans of most H.B.C. houses conformed largely to this prototype, it is fitting that we outline it here: 196

...a plain, rectangular, gable-roofed block of two main storeys and an attic having a symmetrical plan in which a single large room is placed on either side of a central staircase on each floor. More accommodation is sometimes obtained by the addition of a basement, and by increasing the width of the building so that two rooms instead of one, can be placed on each side of the stair. The symmetry of the plan is clearly reflected in the elevations, particularly in the main front, where the windows are almost always regularly disposed about a central entrance - doorway at principal floor level. In smaller houses kitchen and parlour usually occupy the ground floor'. with perhaps one other living-room and bedrooms above, but where there is a service basement as many as three or four principal rooms may be grouped on the two main floors.

What became unique to the H.B.C. when this, as well as the "colombage" style were imported into the northwest, were the roof styles and preference in window construction. Hip or gable roofs were preferred to the pavilion roof, and whereas the French-Canadians were prone to use casement windows, the British preference was for sash windows. 197 Other stylistic variations occurred as a result of geographical location, but it is significant to note that it was this basic style which was used across Canada. However, as one authority has pointed out, it was not a national style, but rather a style associated with the fur trade era. 198

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For the first few years of Fort Victoria's existence, the house and store appear to have been the only permanent buildings on the site. The scant references to the former have already been cited and unfortunately, those dealing with the latter, are equally vague and difficult to interpret. On April 2, 1866, Philip Tait, the second Clerk at Fort Victoria, was requested to "...do what you can about getting on with the Store,"199 but how quickly he progressed remains unknown. Later that month, April 20, Chief Factor W. J. Christie suggested that the building be shingled, but presumably he intended that this should be done at a later date for the store could hardly have been completed in eighteen days. 200 In fact, from the remaining references, a completion date of either late '66 or early '67 recommends itself. In October 1866, Christie forwarded to Victoria the aforementioned shingles, and on December 31, 1866, it was noted that John Nicol, a blacksmith at Fort Edmonton, had been making handles for the store doors. 201 An additional entry in the Fort Edmonton Journal noted that hinges for the store shutter were being assembled as late as September 1869. 202

The only other building which is mentioned in the pre-1870 correspondence is the "cart room", said to have been completed in July 1868. 203 The location and nature of the structure, however, remain unknown, for there is but this one historical reference. Conceivably, it is a reference to the stable which appears in Hardisty's 1874 drawing.

Hardisty's ground plan of Fort Victoria, dated August 10, 1874, is the most accurate description available of the fort complex prior to its initial closure in 1883 (see Figure 8). The circumstances surrounding the survey are unclear, but presumably it was appended to the report he submitted to Chief Commissioner J. A. Grahame in June 1875. 204 Whatever the reason, we now find that the Hudson's Bay Company post consisted of seven buildings: the Clerk's quarters, stable, trading shop/press room, dairy, general store/provision store, men's house, and a combined blacksmith's forge and men's house. The complex was also surrounded by some form of defensive barrier, belatedly referred to as a palisade.205 The final structure which appears to have been connected with Fort Victoria at this time is a grist mill said to have been completed in the fall of 1873. It was located approximately 1-1, miles northeast of the fort on Smoky Lake Creek and was intended to serve as an inducement to (start of page 93) the settlers to grow wheat and barley. 206 In 1884, Tom Kains undertook a survey of the townships west of the fourth initial meridian. The written outlines of his report are rather vague and deal mostly with the vegetation and soil types present in the area. "The country north of the river is dense bush . . . and the . . . soil, second class." 207 The diagramatic outlines, however, are more detailed and provide us with a second relatively accurate ground plan for the H.B.C. fort at Victoria (see Figure 10 and Appendix One). Measuring from corner to corner, Kains noted that the south and north walls of the palisade were approximately 222 feet long, and the west and east-walls 135 feet and 139 feet respectively. He did not give the dimensions of the various buildings, although their number and location correspond closely to Hardisty's drawing. They are dissimilar only in that the stable does not appear in Kains' outline, and a structure of some sort (presumably a kitchen) was attached to the north wall of the Clerk's quarters. What appear to be bastions are also evident in the latter sketch. They were located on the southwest and southeast corners of the palisade. 208 Kains omitted to give their dimensions and there is no additional historical evidence to enlighten us on this particular point. 209

Two years after Fort Victoria was opened for the second time, Clerk Francis D. Wilson wrote that "On . . . taking charge of the post last spring [18881, the buildings were in a very bad condition owing to the post having been abandoned for some years previous, nothing having been done to them last outfit." 210 He remarked further that repairs and improvements had been executed, although not all were of a strictly permanent nature. Unfortunately, his letter is lacking any structural de- tails and it is only in September 1889 that we learn that repairs to the Clerk's quarters constituted the bulk of the previous year's renovations. The September inspection report of E. K. Beeston is the most detailed statement available on the buildings at Fort Victoria: 211

1. Dwelling House, 37 x 24, 1.1-2 storey, shingle roof, lined inside, with kitchen, 23 x 11 attached. A very good building, renovated in 1888.

2.Store, 40 x 24, log, P-, storey, shingle roof, roof being re- newed at time of Inspection, wants a few boards to complete lining, in all other respects a very good building.

3.Warehouse, 40 x 24, log, shingle roof, shingles in bad order; in all other respects a good building. Not of much service,

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except when Lac la Biche goods are received by steamer, and need storing.

4.Men's House, 24 x 16, log, shingle roof, a sufficiently good building.

5. Stable, 25 x 21, log, a good building.

The buildings are convenient for the Steamboat Landing, and near to the principal part of the settlement. The Fort enclosure is about 12- acre, and the Field about 5-1-2 acres; are surrounded with Post and Rail fence, put up in 1888 at a cost of $68.60. The buildings are more than sufficient for the present trade, but in all respects suitable.

A quick perusal of the ground plan that accompanied Beeston's report indicates that there were two major changes in the configuration of the fort buildings since Hardisty's visit in 1874, namely, a stable had replaced the blacksmith's forge/men's house to the east of the Clerk's quarters, and the dairy had been removed from the site (see Figure 11).212 Presumably, the latter was a casualty of the 1888-1889 renovation program. Accurate measurements are also lacking for the newly built post and rail fence, although the compound appears to be square, rather than rectangular as Hardisty had indicated. 213

The final report on the condition of the buildings at Fort Victoria was submitted in 1895 (see Figure 12). In it were documented several changes, the most significant being the construction of a new livery and the three-fold increase in land under fence. 214

No. 1.Dwelling House with lean to kitchen, log, shingle roof, 2 storeys, 24 x 38 feet, in good repair. 

No. 2.Saleshop, log, shingle roof, I storey, 24 x 38, in good repair. 

No. 3.Warehouse, log, shingle roof, 1 storey, old 24 x 38 feet, roof leaky, in fair order, foundation not very good. 

No. 4. Men's House, log, in fair order, roof leaky, 16 x 24 feet. 

No. 5. Stable, log, in fair order, 25 x 26 feet. 

No. 6. Well. 61-2 acres Land enclosed partly cultivated as garden. 15 acres Land under fence.

The years 1896-1897 are singularly devoid of references concerning the buildings at Fort Victoria. It is assumed, therefore, that when the post was abandoned during Outfit 1897, the dwellings were in a condition similar to that outlined in '95.

The history of the buildings following 1897 is somewhat unclear. The Clerk's quarters was used as a private residence well into the mid- 

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20th century, whence it was purchased by the Alberta Government (1960). The trading shop was renovated and used as a store until the mid '20s when it was cut in half and removed from the site. Presumably, the remaining buildings suffered the same or a similar fate.

Continue to Chapter VII
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 Used with permission of Les Hurt and Alberta Community Development.

190. W. J. Christie to George Flett, Victoria, October 23, 1864. H.B.C. Records, B.60/b/1.

191. On October 18, 1865, Flett was informed that "as many shingle nails as I [Christie] can spare" would be sent to Fort Victoria. W. J. Christie to George Flett, October 18, 1865. H.B.C. Records, B.60/b/2.

192. Fred Kniffen and Henry Glassie, "Building in Wood in the Eastern United States," The Geographical Review (January 1966), p. 50.

193. Ibid., p. 51.

194. Jill Wade, "Red River Architecture, 1812-1870" (M.A. thesis, University of British Columbia, 1967), p. 4.

195. The "post on sill" or "poteaux sur sole" method of construction was a French Canadian variant of the "columbage" style used in northern France. One authority has stated that "the only difference between colombage and poteaux sur sole is that the empty spaces between uprights were filled in France, with stone, clay, and straw, whereas in Canada wood ... answered the same purpose." Marius Barbeau, "The House That Mac Built," The Beaver (December 1945), p. 10.

196. John G. Bunbar, The Historic Architecture of Scotland (London: B. T. Batsford, Ltd., 1966), p. 81. Cited in Wade, p. 41.

197. Wade, p. 43.

198. Ibid., p. 46.

199. W. J. Christie to Philip Tait, Victoria, April 2, 1866. H.B.C. Records, B.60/b/2.

200. W. J. Christie to Philip Tait, Victoria, April 20, 1866. H.B.C. Records, B.60/b/2.

201. Fort Edmonton Journal, December 31, 1866.

202. Fort Edmonton Journal, September 11, 1869. These hinges could also have been replacements,. The archaeological findings relating to the Trading Shop/Press Room can be found in Timothy C. Losey, et al., Archaeological Investigations: Fort Victoria, 1974 (Historic Site Service, Alberta Culture: Occasional Paper No. 2, March 1977). According to Frank E. Mitchell, A History of Pioneering in the Pakan District, p. 6, the store was built for the Company by Sam Whitford and Joe Turner.

203. Fort Edmonton Journal, July 6, 1868.

204. R. Hardisty to J. A. Grahame, Edmonton, June 8, 1875. H. B. C. Records, D 20/2, #566.

205. On October 19, 1874, a member of the N.W.M.P. described Fort Victoria in the following terms: "...a small palisaded enclosure on the north bank of the Saskatchewan." John Peter Turner, The North West Mounted Police 1873-1893, vol. 1 (Ottawa: King's Printer, 1950), p. 177. The archeological evidence relating to the dairy can be found in Timothy C. Losey, et al., Archaeological Investigations: Fort Victoria, 1974. The General Store/Provision Store is dealt with in Archaeological Investigations: Fort Victoria, 1975. Details regarding the Men's House and combined Blacksmith's forge/Men's House can be found in Archaeological Investigations: Fort Victoria, 1975-1976. The defensive structures for the outpost are dealt with in Archaeological Investigations: Fort Victoria, 1974, 1975, and 1976.

206. William S. Gore to Donald A. Smith, November 25, 1873. H.B.C. Records, E.15/14. According to John Bunn, who was Clerk at Victoria at the time, the mill was finished by one Jacob Beads, who was paid thirty dollars per month, including the use of his own tools. John Bunn to Richard Hardisty, November 29, 1872. Hardisty Papers, File 52-247. The H.B.C. toll for use of the mill was every fifth bushel and the average daily outpost was fifty bushels. Saskatchewan Herald, May 19, 1879 and the Hardisty Papers.

207. Descriptions of the Townships of the North-West Territories (Ottawa: MacLean, Roger and Company, 1886), p. 213. A special survey of the Victoria settlement was undertaken in July 1878 by W.F. King, D.L.S. His topographical traverse, however, is not very enlightening as far as the H.B.C. fort was concerned. See Figure 9 for King's traverse.

208. Tom Kains, Field Notes of Victoria Settlement - Season of 1884. Field Book No. 4307. Alberta Transportation: Surveys and Mapping Branch. The theory that there were bastions at Victoria is supported by a report in the Edmonton Bulletin. On June 20, 1885, it was noted that a breach in the barricade had been repaired and another bastion erected.

209. Recent archaeological excavations have revealed that bastions, or galleries, could possibly have been located at the southeast and southwest corners. The archaeologists, however, are quick to point out that there is little supportive evidence and the theory is highly speculative. Archaeological Investigations: Fort Victoria, 1974 and 1975.

210. Francis D. Wilson to Harrison Young, Victoria, June 1, 1889. H.B.C. Records, B.60/c/2.

211. Inspection Report 1889. H.B.C. Records, B.360/3/2.

212. There is some evidence to indicate that the Blacksmith's shop may have been removed as early as 1878. In a letter dated March 17, 1878, and addressed to Richard Hardisty, the Clerk in charge at Fort Victoria noted that "... some Blacksmith's work ... was ... made at Edmonton." Hardisty Papers, File 187-1186.

213. The archaeological remains of the fence are discussed in Archaeological Investigations: Fort Victoria, 1975.

214. Inspection Report 1895. H.B.C. Records, B.360/e/4.